Tool Box Drawer

Building the drawer is a very precise task. It has to be machined and installed with little room for error.

 First let's knock out the 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 17" Drawer front. It should pop out because we taped it up before glue up.

 After we have secured the drawer front, the sides and back are secured and milled to 1/2"

 

 The Drawer components are all the same height. Yaser didn't forget to rip his 3/4'' thick front at the same time as his 1/2" sides and back to 2 3/8"

2 3/8" should leave a 1/16"space between top and bottom of drawer evenly.

Daniel has more than enough stalk for test pieces.

Next the bottom grooves are run. After all that practice shimming the dado set during Mod09 and the case production, students are getting pretty good at this.

 Accuracy is most important. Our tolerance is less than slim for the drawer.

Kei Wing decided to run his outside drawer groove before separating his back from his sides.

Ok then.!

Next it is important to cut the 1/2" x 1`2" rebates which connect the drawer sides to the Front before crosscutting the sides.

This time Rodrigo  chose to set the stop block in the miter fence instead of using the rip fence.

Perhaps Your toolbox is not as deep as planned. Adjust the length of the drawer sides accordingly

 After a quick fit go ahead and run the dadoes for the drawer back trim the MDF bottom to fit in all four grooves.

 Now if you machined everything right, the back should be crosscut to 16 3/8"....

So verify.

4 + 1 clamps and some small cauls should be enough to glue up this drawer.

Be sure to position the clamps and cauls over the joints.

Cabinetmakers use stop blocks and other strategies for consistent machining.
So if it is square, the distance from both opposite corners are the same.

When gluing up, check the diagonals

The fifth clamp will help you square up the rectangle by squeezing the furthest corners back together until they are the same distance as the other two.